The hats of New York runways for SS2014 are all about function with a little pinch of fantasy. The straw, once again, seems to be the go to material for the head gear of the new Spring 2014. In some spots I got a little bit bored watching the same old same old approach to the shapes and colors, seemed like many of the hats have been, done, seen, worn before again and again and again. It almost felt as if someone keeps pulling out the same hats season after season from the dusty closet of the backroom of Fashion Universe. The shadow of WWD's August article on hats "Deja Vu For Harper's Bazaar" with the final question "Does anyone still wear a hat?" accompanied the common opinion that hats, with a very rare exception, are always a matter of function and rarely a matter of style. It was hard to determine if the article referred to the legendary photograph of Walter Florell's hat by Richard Avedon which was done for Harper's Bazaar back in 1951 and bares almost identical resemblance to the image of the cover of the September Issue of Harper's Bazaar in terms of the pose of the model and the feather of the hat cascading forward over the face OR the thought behind the article was the simple fact that modern day millinery keeps referring to the designs by the masters of the past to make it somehow relevant to the modern day interpretation of glamour and chic. Another words, the implication that millinery here, in the US, is running on empty.
I would love to have a more in depth conversation with the author of the article Eric Maza mainly because I think that his question is really not at all that all together wrong. What a terrible thing to say, right? Not so fast. While navigating through a very complex net of preparations for MBFW, I have made few discoveries. The main one: no one in New York seems to think of hats as a separate, powerful entity, capable of delivering the look on its own. Hats mostly viewed as some sort of an orphan from twice removed cousin side of the family, with whom the family (of Pret-a-porte) has to deal with out of necessity. On one hand you can't get read of it (not with a piles and piles of the images and illustrations proudly displayed in the decades worth of Issues of Vogue and many other glossy publications) on the other - you have no clue how exactly to deal with it either. One might say that being a milliner presenting a huge box full of hats to the certain committee felt like, in terms of gastronomy, you are a small sad cup of coleslaw served on the side of the prime cut stake. Almost like an afterthought. Not a very cozy feeling. The question of relevance of modern day millinery to the wardrobe of the woman of today was almost palpable everywhere I went. That is until the various committees saw what I had to say and show in terms of hats: I could see the change in body language almost immediately and in some cases a huge sigh of relief as if the air was let out of the tire. I was told that before the examples of my new collection were shown, the main worry seem to be that the Presentation of hats unaccompanied by everything else that goes into creating "the look'' is running a huge risk of being bland and boring. The same flower/feather/brim exercise people got used to seeing in large quantities here and there was unacceptable. No one wants to see bland, forgettable hats as a solo presentation, no matter how everyday and how wearable they are. "They will not allow it" I have been told. Once it became apparent that my hats are hardly boring and twice as hardly average, we were approved but with one condition: we were requested the very same thing to which the committee objected so strongly before. We were requested to create and add to the Presentation several designs for every day ware. And so we did. They were fun and chic (otherwise I would never put them on the stands) but guess what? - Not a single one of this hats was photographed during the Presentation, I mean not a single one! The crowds of photographers, stylists, editors were drawn to the opposite: eclectic, artistic, detailed, colorful hats, they could not get enough of them.. At the end I was struggling to find the reason as to why with such an apparent interest and phrase to the beautiful, out of the ordinary millinery designs, fashion industry is still insisting on playing it safe? Could someone, please, pin point the middle ground between two? I still do not have an answer.
Anyway, forgive my unusually long article today, I felt that all of the above has to be said. :-) I, as a milliner operating in New York will, of course, continue to contribute my small part to the change in the general outlook on hats and millinery in general. This being said, below you will find a complete round up of millinery presence on MBFW Runways for SS2014. I, of course, have my favorites including charming, elegant hats of Zac Posen's Collection (three images from the top), fabulous hats created by Stephen Jones for Donna Karan, as well as absolutely gorgeous hats created by Yestadt Millinery for The Row. My hat is off to the designer Wendy Nichol for creating beautiful black and white fantasy using well though through, story telling head gear! Finally, I loved loved Loved Tibi's hats constructed out of ice-cream sticks origami style. I am wishing everyone fabulous weekend ahead!
Adam Selman MBFW New York SS2014.
Anna Sui, MBFW New York SS2014.
Badgley Mischka, MBFW New York SS2014.
Calla, MBFW New York SS2014.
Creatures Of Comfort, MBFW New York SS2014.
Derek Lam, MBFW New York SS2014.
DKNY, MBFW New York SS2014.
Donna Karan, MBFW New York SS2014.
Erin Fetherston, MBFW New York SS2014.
Kate Spade New York, MBFW New York SS2014.
Lyn Devon, MBFW New York SS2014.
Mark McNairy New Amsterdam, MBFW New York SS2014.
Misha Nonoo, MBFW New York SS2014.
Nicholas K, MBFW New York SS2014.
Ralph Lauren, MBFW New York SS2014.
Rodarte, MBFW New York SS2014.
Suno, MBFW New York SS2014.
The Row, MBFW New York SS2014.
Tibi, MBFW New York SS2014.
Timo Weiland, MBFW New York SS2014.
Tracy Reese, MBFW New York SS2014.
Trina Turk, MBFW New York SS2014.
Vera Wang, MBFW New York SS2014.
VFiles, MBFW New York SS2014.
Wendy Nichol, MBFW New York SS2014.
Whit, MBFW New York SS2014.
Y-3, MBFW New York SS2014.
All images are courtesy of Style.com.
Friday, September 20, 2013
The Hats Of MBFW SS2014 Runways. SS2014 Round Up From New York.
Posted by Anya Caliendo at Friday, September 20, 2013