Tuesday, November 26, 2013

"Islero", The "Manolete" Editorial, Part 3.

It is well documented that Manolete was thinking about retiring not long before his final battle. He was exhausted of  demanding schedule, long lived rivalry with the Mexican matador ,Carlos Arruza, and his rivalry  with brave young bullfighter Luis Miguel Dominguin, who often challenged him publically. The relationship with Sino was also a struggle because Manolete's own family refused to accept her. She was not welcomed...
 Several days before August 28th it was announced that Manolete will be fighting at Linares Bullring along with Gitanillo de Triana and Luis Miguel Dominguin. The public was beyond excited, afterall, it was announced that Manolete will be fighting against fierce bulls of Miura. On the chosen day, in unbearable hit,  10,500 people fill the ring with great expectation for the corrida to come. After a brilliant "faena" with the previous bulls, the time came  for Manolete to fight the fifth Miura bull. His name was Islero, furious, powerful, fierce bull with horrendous horns. It was immediately after the final act of "muleta"  when Islero dug his horn deep into the bullfighter’s right thigh. Manolete was carried out of the arena while the public went literally insane appalled by the devastating goring of their idol. But nobody was worrying just yet. Remember, Manolete was gored 11 times in his professional career and 11 times he made full recovery...
 I thought how difficult it must have been for him to be able to sustain so much pressure. It wasn't just about being a #1 bullfighter but, I believe, Manolete was also in search of the stability when it came to his beloved Sino. The situation with Sino was more exhausting than performing on the arena against the most powerful bulls of Spain because it involved Manolete's family...Next week I will be publishing the final part of Manolete editorial. Today I am leaving you with the hat I named "Islero" and wishing you wonderful weekend ahead.
Photographed by Ed Hafizov for "Anya Caliendo. Couture Millinery Atelier." Stylist - Anya Caliendo, Models - Anastasia Z and Dzmitry Patuk, Make Up Artist  - Roshar, Corset - Jane Woolrich Designs.

Tuesday, November 19, 2013

Inspiration Files: In Love With Emerald Green.

 The Fall is usually a season of color revelations for me. The beauty, of course,  can be found in any color, but somehow favorites among color combinations prevail while many others stay unnoticed or neglected until ..well, in my case, Fall arrives. This Fall I find myself almost obsessively drawn to emerald green as if I have never seen the color before, I am discovering it in entirely new way - the regal color, the chosen color on the pallet of "classic" colors. I actually kept a separate color file (as I do with all colors I love) for the emerald green for quite some time now wondering if I could work myself up to creating emerald hat. Still not resolved on this one since green has so many undertones. Today I am leaving you with the fabulous selection of emerald green images starting with the head image of Lanvin necklace in emerald green. I hope you enjoy it. :-) Wishing everyone fantastic week ahead. :-)






















Friday, November 15, 2013

Farewell to Fall with Shimmering "Daydreamer", "Confessions" Collection SS2014.

 It is getting colder with every single morning as November is slowly disappearing into the past. And although I love Winter, my favorite season of all is Fall. It seems magical to me...I get inspired by it endlessly and this time it happens to be even more so. Gold is a very tough color to work with, tough color to photograph and is one of the toughest colors to design with: slide variation of shade and instead of glamorous sophistication you find yourself in the costume isle and not in a good one too. "Daydreamer" like so many of my hats happened by chance. I sort of played with an idea of suspended golden leafs and the memories of Russian forests covered in low morning fog. The idea wasn't as much of a memory as a feeling of being a whiteness to divine beauty I experienced several times and wanted to capture somehow.
 I felt complete sense of serenity while working on "Daydreamer", the hat itself sort of led me to its final look. I incorporated tiny pearl Lilly of the valley flowers resting on gold toned leafs and surrounded it by distressed silk illusion. Gold leafs suspended of golden wires came from the birch tree, were freeze dried and than dipped in gold. What seemed like an enormous amount of work felt like a spiritual experience. I often get accused of living in my own head, but could never understand why is this such a bad thing? I feel the happiest when I am alone working on something like "Daydreamer". :-)
 "Daydreamer" became one of the most loved and admired hats during my MBFW presentation at Lincoln Center for SS2014. Not only that, but it is now officially the most ordered hat. :-)Leaving you with details shot of "Daydreamer" hat and  wishing you fabulous November weekend.

Tuesday, November 12, 2013

"Sino. The Matador's Mistress" , "Manolete" Editorial Part 2.

 Today I am posting a continuation of the "Manolete" editorial the Part  1 of which you saw last week (right here) with a hat I named "Sino. The Matador's Mistress". I think Manolete's love story touched me more than his astonishing career as a bullfighter. In the 1940-s Manolete's earnings has been estimated at 4 million in 8 years - an absolutely insane amount of money for pre-war Spain. His face graced every single national magazine of that time, artists compited in illustrating Manolete's every win, his cult was fostered by songs in his honor, dolls with his face and even liqueur called "Anis Manolete". He became the most desirable man in Spain.
 Despite this fact and despite the fact that Manolete could have any woman his heart desired his love life was surprisingly very brief. He fell in love with a young and beautiful actress form La-Mancha (yes, I know, I smiled at the name of the place  remembering The Ingenious Gentleman Don Quixote of La-Mancha) by the name Lupe Sino, born Antonia Bronchalo Lopesino. She has been well known for her bold and rather shameless behavior as well as her previous romances with other famous Matadors of the time. I tried to imagine her. There are very few images of her available on line but to me she felt more free spirited and careless rather than shameless. She loved strong men and they loved her back including Manolete. Manolete met Sino in the bar and she remained by his side until his death. I think she was one of those women men have difficulty controlling, whose spirit could not be tamed by the rules and expectations of the time. Sino amazed me and I decided to create a hat you see here "Sino. The Matador's Mistress".
 I wanted it to be as beautiful and as complex in detail as Sino was. Once I finished it, I realized that I could probably go on creating many color variations of "Sino" and every single version would still be baring the name of the Matador's Mistress, depicting  Sino's every mood...
Potographed by Ed Hafizov for "Anya Caliendo. Couture Millinery Atelier", styled by Anya Caliendo, Make up artist Roshar, Model's - Anastasia Zubkova and Dzmitry Patuk, Corset by Jane Woolrich.

Friday, November 8, 2013

"Starfall" .

 The "Starfall" originally was created as a part of my "Sanctum" Collection back in 2012 and actually got its shining moment walking the runway at "Triumvirate Of Seduction" fashion show by Leonid Gurevich. Since than I retired it to the archives almost immediately for several reasons and it took some time to bring it back. Once in a while I ran into a problem of creative nature ."Starfall" is a perfect example of it. I loved the original idea of "Starfall", I loved the way it looked on paper, I loved selected fabrics (and I did spend insane number of hours trying to select the sequined fabric that would give life to the hat I had in mind). I designed a very special block for the half-moon part of the hat and sent my measurements and drawings for the block to my brilliant block makers in UK - Guy Morse Brown. But once the hat was finished and than photographed on catwalk I realized that I could have done it so much better!
The source of my confusion appeared to be in the images taken on the catwalk. I am notorious among people I work with for being relentless and demanding when it comes to the quality of the images. I am by far not a prize package on the set and those who know me very closely will tell you that all bets are off when the editorial or look book images are not up to my standard. The hats have to look exactly how they look in real life depicting actual colors and displayed exactly how I envisioned them to be displayed. "Starfall", however, refused to comply with any of the rules. When the images came back I felt nothing by disappointment: the "Starfall" appeared to be "dead". The sequined fabric that looked so glamorous and so appealing in real life went completely dark and it felt as if someone has turned of the stars too. If anything, it became apparent that the sequined fabric is not only challenging to work with in general but it is also does not photograph well UNLESS you are lucky enough to have professional set with a genius of a photographer who knows exactly what to do when it comes to the spoiled little creature like "Starfall" (all phrase goes to my in-house photographer Ed Hafizov for that).To be completely honest, I felt heartbroken...Once we got "Starfall" on the set with Ed and the magic lights went on, only than "Starfall" came to life. Here, in this post you see 'Starfall" in all its glory. I still love this hat, but since creating "Starfall" I went on creating another version involving half-moon and stars.I will post it here in the nearest future. Stars have a hold on my heart since I was 5 when me and my sister used to sit in the garden of my Grandmother and look in the dark skies hoping to see the star falling to make a special wish. I still remember mine: live bunny and a basket of oranges! :-)

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

2014 Registration For Advanced Millinery Courses With Anya Is Now Open!

Announcing that the registration for 2014 Advanced Millinery Courses with Anya Caliendo Atelier is now open welcoming new students from all over the globe. Stronger, better, upgraded and edited with new techniques . For more information and details on the Course, for Application requests and tuition fee visit our official website at www.anyacaliendo.com .
Fashion drawing by our official in-house artist Leonid Gurevich for Anya Caliendo.

Tuesday, November 5, 2013

The "Manolete" Editorial. Part 1.

 A while back while researching material in New York Public Library, I unexpectedly came upon a set of articles which dated back to 1930-s of the past century about one of the most extraordinary bullfighters of Spain, legendary Manolete. And even though I came to the library with entirely different purpose, I ended up spending the day reading up every single publication on The Matador of Spain. I also ended up printing a suitcase load of materials and ever since than remain under the spell of the man who was described as The Artist Of Corrida. I could not help but feel the need to recreate his story in hats and so today, I am introducing to you Part 1 of the "Manolete" segment with traditional bullfighter's hat called "montera". It became a very special hat I worked on for quite some time to make sure it is not only authentic and anatomically correct so do speak when it came to shape, but also to make sure that the details: beading, crystal embroidery and trimmings gave "Manolete" montera as strong of a character as the character of the man who is now long gone.
 When I first started to plan editorial for "Manolete", it quickly became very obvious to me that the Matador's suit must be authentic. Through research I found a very special company based in Madrid, Spain which specializes in producing Matador's suits all by hand, embellished with amazing traditional hand embroidery. When, finally, our Matador's suit arrived and was unpacked - everyone in the room and I mean every single person stopped in its tracks. Breathtaking! We came to discover that the Matador's jacket is lined with steel plates and is extraordinarily heavy. I tried to imaging how difficult it must be not only to wear the suit but also fight the bull while wearing it.
 Manolete started his bullfighting career at the age of 17 and soon after became a cultural hero. He fought almost 100 times a year and was gored 11 times during his professional career. And although his career as bullfighter was one of the most astonishing in the history of Spanish Corrida, what touched me the most about the story of his passionate love for the beautiful actress Lupe Sino.
 With in the following weeks I will introduce you to the entire "Monolete" editorial with more fabulous hats and stories behind creating them. I am wishing everyone wonderful week ahead. :-)
Styled by Anya Caliendo for "Anya Caliendo. Couture Millinery Atelier", photographed by Ed Hafizov, Model - Dzmitry Patuk.

Friday, November 1, 2013

The Ever Fabulous Hats Of London, Milan And Paris Runways, SS2014 .

Today I am posting long overdue round up on the hats of London, Milan and Paris Runways for SS2014. Usually, I like to feature all hats presented during the season but this time is a bit different: there were so many hats that when I tried to fit them all in one single post, Blogger repeatedly cancelled upload due to a long running application. I love seeing such a tremendous diversity of hats on runways: from simpler versions to statement pieces - they all tell a story. Since it looks like it would be impossible to fit all hats, I thought I would post the selection of those hats which spoke to me and those I thought presented the art form of millinery at its best. Every hat or head piece in this post is my personal favorite. There were quite a few WOW moments during SS2014 . For example, the return of the sinamay.  I don't like to use sinamay in my personal collections, but I do use it in general production on occasion. Sinamay in my opinion, has a tired, overused effect but I absolutely loved seeing it walking the Armani show as well as the show by Ann Demeulemeester . Some hats completely took me by surprise in a good way of course, some made my heart skip a bit or two but than again - high fashion hats do seem to have this effect on me. I hope you enjoy the selection. :-) Check in next Tuesday as I am planning to start posting "Manolete" segment - a story I got literally obsessed with and the story I simply had to tell in hats. Wishing everyone beautiful weekend ahead! :-)
Vivienne Westwood, Paris SS2014

Ashish, London SS2014


Daks, London, SS2014
Fashion East, London SS2014
 


Giles, London SS2014


John Rocha, London SS2014


Meadham Kirchhoff, London SS2014


Vivienne Westwood Red Label, London SS2014


Antonio Marras, Milan SS2014


Dolce&Gabbana, Milan SS2014


Armani, Milan SS2014
Marni, Milan SS2014

Moschino, MIlan SS2014



Prada, Milan SS2014


Alexander McQueen, Paris SS2014


Ann Demeulemeester, Paris SS2014

Chalayan, Paris SS2014

Comme Des Garcons, Paris SS2014


Gareth Pugh, Paris SS2014


Junya Watanabe, Paris SS2014


Louis Vuitton, Paris SS2014



All images are courtesy of Style.com