Well, almost impossible to believe that New York Fashion Week is just few days away! What!? Really? I have been so preoccupied with the routine of the Atelier, the beginning of February came as a huge surprise. :-) In any case, I am happy that this time I get to sit back and enjoy watching New York Fashion Week happenings from a safe distance knowing that September will be just around the corner which means that I have to worry presenting my new Collection at MBFW again. While the memories of the Paris Haute Couture Week for Spring 2014 are still fresh, I thought I would write few words on my impressions of it. First of all, I felt long awaited and most anticipated show of the Haute Couture this time (Schiaparelli that is) was a big disappointment. Whatever walked down the runway that day was anything but Schiaparelli: there was no lightness, no sense of humor which is as much a part of Schiaparelli's DNA as the presence of beautiful color combinations - lack of which was clearly felt on the runway. Collection created for Schiaparelli by Lacroix was light, dignified and provocative in the same breath, incredible thought through, it felt to me as if Elsa herself was in the building working tirelessly on bringing her own brand back from the oblivion. Zanini's Collection for Schiaparelli felt to me like an attempt to shadow Galliano in his early years and not in a good way. Perhaps, Mr.Zanini tried to create a new kind of Schiaparelli woman, a woman of today, but in this case the experiment has failed. If this is the new Schiaparelli woman, please point her out to me because I have a hard time finding her. The best part of the show were hats and jewelry - they gave it a magic touch. :-) A strong presence of East felt in the choices of headgear by Versace and Armani. It made me think back to the early 80-s when young Yves Saint Laurent first incorporated flowy luxurious scarfs freely placed over the head. I loved the reminder of it and I loved the fact that it is still so relevant today.
My absolute favorite head gear was presented by Jean Paul Gaultier. The theme of butterflies in hat design was almost exhausted by the frenzy created courtesy of famous Butterfly hat by Philip Treacy for Alexander McQueen. Ever since than every single butterfly inspired hat felt like a bad version of the original and before you knew it felt like giant Rain Forrest threw up butterflies all over the place starting from New York and all the way to Australia. Once a delicate accent it became a cliché. There were few rare exception...but those were few and far in between. Gaultier managed not only to bring butterflies back to its glorious moment and rightful place, but he has done so brilliantly, creating a version of his own. Maison Martin Margiela has officially exhausted his long playing motive of over the face masks. The minute I saw the first exit I could almost hear: "Not Again!" streaming out of the screen. Once a very powerful statement (think back 4 or 5 Seasons) it makes you wonder if this is now indeed not a fashion statement but merely a creatively camouflaged way to save some money on make up services for the models. We all know those can be very expensive. Somebody has timidly suggested that perhaps this masks were created in support of infamous Russian punk group "Pussy Riot". If this is the case, than the motive is as ill advised and poor in imagination as the so-called performances of "Pussy Riot". Having that said, I am certainly looking forward to the display of hats during upcoming global fashion weeks. :-) There are always hats that make me very happy. :-) Wishing you fantastic week ahead and leaving you with complete run through of the images courtesy of Style.com .
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring 2014
Versace Haute Couture Spring 2014
Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring 2014
Maison Martin Margiela Haute Couture Spring 2014
Giorgio Armani Haute Couture Spring 2014
Zuhair Murad Haute Couture Spring 2014
Tuesday, February 4, 2014
The Hats Of Spring 2014 Haute Couture Paris Catwalks.
Posted by Anya Caliendo at Tuesday, February 04, 2014
Labels: Anya Caliendo Couture Millinery, Haute Couture Paris Spring 2014 Hats Gaultier Martin Margiela Marco Zanini